Your Pace-past-Step Guide on How to Pour Physical Steps

Complete this curb appeal projection in a weekend with our process for laying out, designing, and building physical steps.

  • Total Fourth dimension: 3 days
  • Skill Level: Avant-garde

Poured concrete steps provide a sturdy, long-lasting transition between an outdoor surface, such every bit a patio, and the entry to your house. However, deciding how high and how deep (forepart to back) each pace should be can be confusing. The answer to this question is found in some simple math you can use to compute the unit of measurement ascent (vertical height) and run (horizontal length).

When because the full run of the unit, local codes oftentimes require the top landing to extend at to the lowest degree 12 inches beyond the door swing. Subtract the width of an out-swinging door (commonly 32 or 36 inches) from the length yous measure out between the foundation to the outside edge of the steps. If the remainder is less than 12 inches, you may need to modify your plan.

Be certain you know and understand the codes before you offset planning physical steps. If you don't construct them according to code, a building inspector can brand you tear them out. Codes may also include requirements most the placement of rebar or other reinforcements, as well as the concrete mix y'all apply.

Expect to spend two to three days to plan, lay out, and pour iii physical stairs (not counting curing time). Follow these step-by-pace instructions to enhance your exterior with concrete steps.

Instructions

SCM_158_03.jpg

SCM_158_02.jpg

  1. Measure Rise and Run

    Mensurate the ascent and run of the area where you program to place the steps. Bulldoze stakes to indicate where the base of the bottom footstep will be when poured. Compute the unit rise and run of the steps, and describe a dimensioned sketch.

    How to Compute Rise and Run

    The unit ascent and unit run of steps are the individual dimensions of each riser and each tread.

    To compute the unit rise and run, first divide the total rise past seven inches, a standard step height. Circular up partial results to the nearest whole number. Then divide the total rise again past this number to get the unit rise.

    For example, here'south the math for a total rising of twenty inches: xx inches/7 inches = 2.eight (rounding up equals three steps). xx inches/3 steps = vi.half-dozen inches. In this example, yous'll need three steps six-v/viii inches high to climb xx inches.

    Adjacent, divide the full run (to the outside border of the door sweep) by the number of steps to get the unit of measurement run. For example, if your total run was 48 inches, here'south the math: 48 inches/3 steps = 16 inches per tread. However, a tread depth of 16 inches would probably feel likewise long. Adjust the tread depth to 13 inches, a more comfy measure out, and make the total run 39 inches.

  2. Lay Out Footings

    Lay out footings 3 inches wider than the steps. Excavate the footings to the depth codes require, pour the concrete, and insert 12-inch lengths of rebar 7 to 8 inches into the footings. The top of the rebar should be nearly ii inches lower than the finished height of the steps. Permit the footings cure, and so dig a 4-inch trench betwixt them and fill it with tamped gravel.

  3. Anchor Physical Steps (Optional)

    With an underlying grid of ½-inch rebar, poured physical steps volition give you years of low-maintenance service. Some local building codes may require that you anchor physical steps to the foundation wall. Y'all tin either drill at an angle into a poured concrete foundation, or through a concrete cake wall and insert rebar in the holes.

  4. Outline Steps

    Using your plan and the actual dimensions you have computed and sketched, draw the outline of your steps on a sail of ¾-inch plywood. Describe the line for the landing so it slopes ¼ inch per human foot. Clamp a 2nd plywood sheet to the first, edges flush, and cutting the outline of the stride with a jigsaw.

  5. Check Square, Level, and Plumb

    Using a framing foursquare to make certain the forms are perpendicular to the foundation of the house, set the forms in place, and drive supporting stakes aslope them. Make sure the forms are plumb and level with each other, so fasten them to the stakes with 2-inch screws. Cut off any portion of the stakes above the forms.

  6. Install Riser Forms

    For each physical step, cut a slice of 2x lumber to the width of the stairs and rip it to the pinnacle of the unit rise if necessary. Bevel the lower border of each riser (except the bottom ane) to make information technology easier to float the tread when you pour the steps. Fasten the top riser form to the outside of the side forms with three 2-inch screws. Then install the remaining riser forms.

  7. Adhere Braces

    Cut angled braces and fasten them to the side forms at the front edge of each step. Then drive 2x4 stakes at the bottom of the braces. Plumb the side forms and fasten the braces to the stakes. To go on the riser forms from bowing, bulldoze a 2x4 stake 18 inches or deeper into the ground in front of the steps. Lay a 2x6 on the risers and fasten information technology to the stake and to cleats attached to the risers. Attach an expansion strip to the foundation with construction adhesive.

  8. Build Perpendicular Steps (Optional)

    Concrete steps can run either straight forward from an outside door or at correct angles to it. Forms for perpendicular steps get together in essentially the same way the straight concrete steps do.

    To pour concrete steps perpendicularly, start by hitting a level line on the foundation to marker the height of the landing. Measure from this line to position the plywood forms for the rear and side. Brace the forms with stakes, cutting beveled risers, concur them level, and mark their lower corner on the foundation. Then fasten the diagonal brace to the house and foundation and the risers to cleats. Brace the front edge of the risers equally yous would a directly stairs.

  9. Fill with Rubble

    To salve concrete, fourth dimension, and money, shovel rubble (make clean chunks of broken physical, river rock, or any make clean masonry) into the space inside the forms. Pile the rubble college under the landing than the offset pace, but don't put in then much rubble that information technology will make the concrete in the steps as well thin.

  10. Add Rebar

    To strengthen the physical, bend lengths of ½-inch rebar so it roughly corresponds to the shape of the rubble mound and lay information technology on the rubble at 12-inch intervals. Wire perpendicular lengths of rebar across the first pieces. Then raise the rebar upwardly and support it on dobies or balusters that y'all wire to the rebar.

  11. Mix and Fill with Concrete

    Before pouring concrete steps, coat the forms with a release agent. Mix the concrete and bring it to the site in wheelbarrow loads. Shovel the concrete inside the forms, starting with the bottom step and working up. Tap the sides of the forms and risers with a hammer and jab a 2x4 upwardly and downwards in the mix to drive air bubbles out. Give the physical enough time to settle between the rubble pieces, and add more physical if needed.

  12. Edge Risers

    Run an edger forth the within edge of each riser form to round the front edge of each footstep. This helps minimize chipping. If you're going to encompass the steps with brick, tile, or rock, leave the edges square.

  13. Remove Forms

    Let the physical fix long enough to back up its own weight, and then remove the riser forms and terminate the concrete with a trowel. Use a step trowel (a drywall corner pocketknife works as well) to work the corners smooth. Broom the treads to roughen the surface, allow the concrete cure, then install the railing. Subsequently 12 to 24 hours, remove the side forms and fill up in any voids in the concrete.